Refined Dining

Sydney Morning Herald

Tuesday October 5, 2004

Matthew Evans

Claude's, Woollahra

18/20

Address

10 Oxford Street, Woollahra.

TEL 93312325.

Hours

Dinner Tue-Sat from 7.30pm.

Food

Modern French.

Wine List

Racy two-pager, with French bias. BYO (corkage $10 a bottle).

Owner

Chui Lee Luk.

Chef

Chui Lee Luk.

Service

Almost imperceptible. In a good way.

Noise

Hush hush.

Vegetarians

Ring ahead.

Wheelchair Access

Yes.

Cards

Major.

Bill

Set menus: $125 and degustation $150.

Value

Excellent.

Summary

Chui Lee Luk has done the impossible. She's achieved a virtually seamless change from the previous chef's reign at this Woollahra institution, yet maintains those delicious culinary acrobatics.

A new owner takes this Sydney classic to new heights.

Glazed salsify sits with wilted kale on a plate of large, white porcelain. A nub of pan-fried veal sweetbread has been blanched, spiced with clove, star anise and cinnamon, then nestled alongside. Chunks of braised quail leg dot the dish, while halved, tiny white Iranian figs marinated in red wine vinegar sit to one side. Snappy flecks of chopped pine nut, scented with garlic and thyme, are scattered with abandon. Quail breast, which has been marinated in cream, thyme, garlic and lemon zest, before being pan-fried to a lustrous pink, is draped over the top. It's a textural, flavourful masterpiece.

Welcome to Claude's, where an entree described as "pan-fried quail, sweetbread and black cabbage" offers far more than its description. What's more, this dish - the nuances, the searingly clever technique and the way it teases the palate - is also wonderfully delicious.

Now, the remarkable thing isn't so much that Claude's is good, but that it has remained truly great despite a hand-over to a new owner and head chef. Tim Pak Poy stepped out of the place in July, passing the keys to Sydney's most discreet restaurant door to Chui Lee Luk.

Luk, who's been rattling copper pans at Claude's for five years, has a lot to live up to. There's 28 years of history for a start, plus the fact that Claude's has been a three-hat restaurant in The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide for much of its life. To make matters more difficult, Pak Poy left at the top of his game.

Incredibly, and thankfully, if things continue to evolve like this, we're in for a big first year from Luk, Sydney's hot new leading lady.

The dining room remains unchanged. It's a simple interior with charcoal coloured carpet, some creamy walls lined with pale green antique Limoges porcelain, lit too brightly for comfort. A mirror sits against the rear wall, there's a sideboard for some of Sydney's best-cellared wine (a brief but intelligent French-accented list, there's also BYO, $10 per bottle corkage), while upstairs there's a smaller, study-style room. It's all understated elegance and a refinement that makes most Sydney restaurants look crass.

"Elegant" best describes Luk's food, which comes as two set-priced menus: a three-course offering (which includes two appetisers, coffee and petits fours) $125: and a tasting menu, $150. Prices are due for an increase, however.

The first appetiser is all retro indulgence: crisp choux puffs filled with foie gras mousse lightened with a good whack of Madeira.

Next, the legendary smoked salmon consomme{aac}, sweetly warm in a fine Limoges demitasse; it's topped with cream and a few threads of saffron. Across the rim lies a chive-scented wisp of a wafer.

The tasting menu dishes up a native angasi oyster - poached in meat stock then wind dried (yes, you read it correctly). To the side is a cloud of house-made tofu scented with horseradish and a zucchini flower filled with a blissful concoction of tea-smoked scallop, water chestnut and lily bud.

Next, King George whiting is scrolled around chunks of sweet mud crab and shiitakes.

Then, medallions of shelled marron (West Australian freshwater crayfish) are sprinkled with flecks of coral (roe) from the marron and meat from its claws, redolent with aniseed and a hint of peppermint. In a moment of triumph, the staff spoon over a light hollandaise.

Another Claude's classic is the Aylesbury duck breast, which arrives as nude pink slices. It is as melodious under Luk as anyone. The sauce is made by pressing duck bones and using the juices as a thickener, a classic French technique, though there's a welcome delicacy of touch. I'm particularly happy to see lots of vegetables; salsify, peas and double-peeled broad beans grace the plate.

The last savoury course is a round of deep red, seared and perfectly rested venison loin. A huddle of salt-cured fillet is mixed with wilted rape (turnip tops), there are a few jewel-like cubes of mustard fruits dotting a dribble of red wine and green peppercorn sauce. It's solid, if a little restrained.

Claude's makes its own orange blossom water, which flavours a disc of parfait and some accompanying strips of watermelon. The parfait, deftly ringed with sponge cake, is paired with lemon curd and cream, before being topped with a sugar tuile. This is perfection on a plate.

The souffle remains divine; our strawberry rendition has the bite of long pepper. You scoop out the middle to add diced mandarins and strawberries, then they pour in a luxuriously textured Cointreau cream.

I'd like to see the tasting menu broken with that peerless green salad and some waiters are so restrained they border on reticent. But Claude's direction seems assured. It's comforting to see a return to French discipline and that the steak and kidney pie (and I don't like kidneys) and the brandade with poached egg are making guest appearances.

As always, the rarefied air of Claude's isn't for everyone. Thankfully, for those who notice the finest things, Chui Lee Luk continues to offer pure magic on the plate.

Scoresheet

Some rewards 11

Not so bad 12

Some respectable highlights 13

A solid experience 14

Reliably good 15

A bit of that WOW factor 16

Amazingly good 17

World class 18

Truly spectacular 19

Are we in heaven? 20

The score comprises 10 points for food, five for service and three for ambience, with an extra two points possible for a sprinkling of magic, whether it be the warmth of the welcome, the excitement on the plate, or a spectacular setting.

© 2004 Sydney Morning Herald

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